He is stunned for a moment. Either he doesn’t recall me buying him a soda, or he doesn’t recall where he left it. Or he traded it in for something more potent and promptly forgot about it. He doesn’t even seem to remember that he single-handedly annihilated two litres of Cocacola! He shrugs helplessly, his sinewy hands cradling the giant loaf. I reach into my pannier bags and pull out the bottle of juice concentrate, much to his delight. He picks a tin and fetches water from the lake, and I mix all of us a drink, which we use to eat the poor sealoaf. Yes, they drink the lake water. I use my own water for my drink.

Crocodiles do piss and poop, no?

We approach the island. My arm is getting a bit sore as I’m given a mandatory demonstration of how I will take photos for only the fiftieth time within an hour.

TWAF!! “That is the island!”

We dock at the island. There’s a KWS shed, but there’s absolutely no one here. The sun is already high and hot. This is not how I had envisioned visiting this island. In my dreams it was a camping trip, during which I would hike the island with my photography gear and take amazing photos of sunrises and sunsets. Not happening. Today all I want is to step foot on the island, and I’m satisfied. I promise myself that another day I will fulfil my dream. After I buy a boat, maybe. It might be cheaper than hiring one.

We leave the boat and walk into the island, to see the Crocodile lake, where I don’t see any crocodiles..

We get back on the boat. This time I’m wiser and I run to sit in front, where Asis was seated before. Bagayo urges me to take the seat next to him but I refuse. I tell him the engine is too loud for me. Which is true too… We push off the island.

We pass between these two smaller islands on our way south east towards Moite.

It’s a long dreary boat ride. It takes about two and a half hours to get to Moite. If you are a bit rich, don’t get anything that floats. Get something with a canopy. The sun is merciless. Nevertheless, I manage to take two long naps, lying down, covered in my kikoi. I’m wearing earplugs to help drown out the engine noise. And it’s more peaceful away from Mr. TWAF.

Moite gets closer…

Moite!!! I’m so excited!! Anam Ka’alokol has had mercy on me, I’m heading safe to the other side of the lake! I’m excited that I have crossed the lake! Pity there’s no network to update my people. There has been no network since we left Longech. I’m sure they are worried sick by now. I did not know there would be no way to communicate here.

But first, to get the bike off the boat. Bagayo spots some people on the shore, and drives towards them. He says we should pick some of the men and take them with us to the proper place to take the bike off.

Finally we dock on shore!!

THANK YOU LORD!!!

Ok! So… Where is the road? They point at a vast field of rocks. That is the road.

Everyone hangs around and curiously watches me as I prepare to ride away from shore. Everyone except Bagayo and Asis, they have to take the long ride back to Kalokol.

I give the guys some appreciation for helping, thank them, and I’m ready to face the field of rocks, and make the climb up to Moite.

I come across a bunch of donkeys grazing in a field.

The road splits into two and I take the one going left. I meet a boy who tells me the direction I have chosen will still get me to Moite, but it’s not very good. I should have taken the other one. Instead of turning around, I decide to go on.

He is right. I have to squeeze through bushes.